Art of the Pants Roll

From The New York Times: The Art of the Pants Roll <a href=”http://nyti.ms/dlY3AW”>http://nyti.ms/dlY3AW</a&gt;

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Summer Wear.

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This Banana Republic mannequin is a perfect example of how to dress in the summer.

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Fresh friends!

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My boy Victor is always fresh. Take note…this is how you are supposed to dress.

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How to Wear Shoes Without Socks

Summer is upon us and I felt the need to post this answer from online magazine, Debonair.

June 9, 2010 by Nicholas J Occhiuto

Dear Ask Debonair,

Since it is the summer, I would like to wear some of my shoes without socks.  The problem is every time I wear shoes without socks, my feet begin to smell.  How can I stop my feet from smelling?

It is important to first, understand the reason for the odor.  This will make trying to solve the problem much easier.  Body odor is mainly caused by bacteria.  Bacteria thrive in moist areas of the body.

For this reason, the first step in eliminating this odor problem is to combat the bacteria which cause it.  To do this, begin by washing your feet with an anti-bacterial soap.  This does means actually wash and exfoliate your feet (don’t just let the water run on them), including in-between your toes.  Also, make sure that your toenails are kept short and clean, as underneath the toenails are a wonderful place for bacteria to grow.

Once you have combated the bacteria itself, the next step is to inhibit the environment in which it could grow.  This means, keep your feet dry.  Again, wet feet will create a moist environment conducive for the growth of odor causing bacteria.  So, when you get out of the shower, pool, ocean (or any other situation where your feet would get wet), be sure to dry your feet thoroughly before you put your shoes back on your feet.

As for the shoes themselves, place a moisture absorbent powder inside your shoes.  Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) should do the trick.  It will absorb the sweat you foot will secrete and will create a more hostile environment for odor causing bacteria.  Also, try not to wear the same shoes every day.  Allow for the shoes to breathe and naturally dry.  Finally, on those days when you would not wear those shoes, you may want to use some cedar wood shoe trees.  The wood will absorb the excess moisture left behind in the shoe.

http://www.debonairmag.com/wear-shoes-socks

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Geo F. Trumper’s Shaving Fundamentals

Shaving is an art, it is not instinctive knowledge, so it is worth printing this page and keeping it. By refining your technique and using good quality products (which need not be expensive) you can make shaving a pleasurable experience. Remember, how you shave affects the way you look and how you feel about yourself, so keep trying and if you need further advice please email us.

Shaving Technique

1. Hot Water

The first essentials to a perfect shave are water and warmth. When hair absorbs hot water it becomes softer and easier to cut and with warmth the skin and facial muscles become relaxed, making shaving so much easier – thus the best time to shave is after a bath or shower. This effect can also be achieved by soaking a folded flannel or small towel in hot water and wrapping it around the face for thirty seconds or more.

2. Preparing the Face

Those who desire a particularly smooth shave, (or who have sensitive skin) might wish to apply a glycerine-based Skin Food; this protects the skin and helps the razor to glide smoothly across the face. Massaging the skin food against the growth of the beard also helps to lift the beard in readiness for the lather.

3. The Lather

Trumper’s shaving cream may be rubbed into the beard with the fingers, but the best results are obtained when using a good quality badger shaving brush. When using cream, place a modest amount in the palm of one hand, dip the brush into hot water and using a circular motion in the palm, build up a rich creamy lather on the brush. Wet the face, and again with a circular motion apply the lather to the beard, allowing the brush to lift the beard, making the hairs stand proud. The brush may be dipped lightly into hot water if more moisture is required in the lather. If using shaving soap, dip the brush in hot water and use a similar circular motion on the soap to create a rich lather.

4. The Shave

Using a good blade that has been warmed in the sink or under hot running water, shave the face in the direction of the beard growth, rinsing the blade in hot water frequently. Never shave ‘against the grain’ of the beard, in awkward areas such as the chin and under the nose the blade can be moved sideways across the growth – but never against as this pulls the skin in the wrong direction causing small cuts and ‘grazing’ to the skin and is the most common cause of ‘razor burn’, in-grown hairs and shaving rash. Rinse the face thoroughly with cool water and pat dry with a soft towel.

5. Caring for the Skin

A good wet shave exfoliates and cleanses the skin, leaving smooth new skin and a healthy clean appearance. Newly exfoliated skin needs to be protected from the elements, so for healthy skin it is important that men use an after-shaving Moisturiser or Skin Food. Products containing alcohol should not be applied to the skin directly after shaving as this may inflame the skin and cause dryness. For best results cologne and other fragrances should be applied to the ‘hot spots’ behind the earlobes and on the sides of the neck.

General shaving tips

  • Shower or bathe before shaving, or warm the face with a hot flannel.
  • Use plenty of hot water and shave in a warm environment.
  • Protect the skin with skin food or moisturiser.
  • Use a quality badger brush with good shaving cream or soap.
  • Brush in a circular motion to lift the beard.
  • Shave with the beard, never against the grain.
  • Rinse the blade frequently in hot water.
  • Rinse face well with cool water and gently pat dry.
  • After shaving use a moisturiser or skin food.
  • Avoid applying alcohol-based products to the face after shaving.

Taking care of your brush and razor

After shaving, rinse your brush and razor thoroughly to remove soap and flick to remove most of the water. Brushes are best hung on a brush stand so that water can move away from the base of the hairs. To avoid mildew, do not keep damp brushes in a closed cupboard or washbag for any length of time. If your brush becomes clogged with soap, soak in a mild solution of borax until clean.

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How To Buy The Right Shoes

5 Pair of shoes you need in your wardrobe:

The Wing Tip:

For Work: Not all wing tips look right with suits. But this pair, with its closed-lace construction, slim leather soles, and rich brown patina, could hold its own with most any three-piece.

For the Weekend: A chunkier toe and a rugged sole are the stuff of casual wing tips and many an action-packed weekend. And if the leather picks up a scuff or two, so much the better.

The Oxford:

For Work: You can’t get much more formal than a finely wrought pair of black oxfords, especially when the toe looks like this: not too pointy, not too round, and not remotely square.

For the Weekend: The lighter the shade of brown and the softer the hand of the leather (or, in this case, suede), the better your oxfords will look with jeans, khaki chinos or beat-up cords.

The Boot:

For Work: Opt for black (inherently more dressy than brown), and keep in mind, the finer the construction, the more polished they’ll look. Speaking of: Keep them shiny.

For the Weekend: Look for something unstructured like desert boots (or another spongy-soled variation thereof). They’re just the kind of lightweight knockabouts that downtime requires.

The Monk Strap:

For Work: Rather than the one thick strap you usually find on monk-strap loafers, this version has two thin straps and lighter buckles, both of which make for a little more professional gravitas.

For the Weekend: The thicker the strap, the more casual the shoes. Don’t worry about polishing the buckles, either: The metal’s faded shine is what gives them their character.

The Loafer:

For Work: When forgoing laces altogether, a hand-rubbed, artfully shaped pair of look-at-me loafers are just the kind of shoes that command respect. Even at the office.

For the Weekend: Thin leather soles are good for office loafers, but thicker rubber soles are standard-issue for casual loafers. Same goes for a penny slot, which must, of course, remain penny-free.

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GQ’s Upgrade Your Office Style

GQ always has great advice for men who are unfamiliar with style and don’t know what to wear, how to wear it, where to buy it and what should go together. In the latest issue of GQ, they show you how to upgrade your office style with suits worn by Paul Walker. I love the advice and the looks.

1. Sport a Plaid Pocket Square
Where’s it written that a pocket square has to be vanilla? Instead, try tucking a patterned handkerchief into your jacket. The whole office will take notice (in a good way).

Cotton-silk suit, $1,595; shirt, $275; and tie, $135: all by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Pocket square (pack of three), $29, by J.Press.

2. Discover Brown—the New Black
Wearing a black belt with black shoes is kind of like whispering; you’ll never speak out of turn, but you’ll never be heard, either. Now, a brown belt with brown shoes? That’s a statement—loud and proud.

Wool suit, $1,495, by Calvin Klein Collection. Shirt, $425, by Dsquared2. Tie, $135, and shoes, $670, by Salvatore Ferragamo. Belt, $295, by Prada. Tie bar by Paul Stuart. Sunglasses by Salt Optics.

3. Recharge Your Dress Shirts
A brightly colored shirt can work at the office—just make sure of a few things: Keep the collar traditional (think a semispread), put on a dark tie, and wear a simple suit. The bottom line: Let the color do all the talking.

Wool-blend suit, $895, by Boss Black. Shirt, $300, by Etro. Tie, $135, by John Varvatos.

4. Get a Handle on the Modern Briefcase
Clumsy and fogyish it ain’t. Offered by everyone from Louis Vuitton to Banana Republic, the modern briefcase—in canvas or textured leather—makes a mature alternative to the messenger bag.

Wool suit, $199, by H&38;M. Shirt, $355, and tie, $190, by Prada. Briefcase, $1,850, by Louis Vuitton. Pocket square by Paul Stuart.

5. Get Some Hardware
Consider accessories that anchor your look with some heft: solid frames, sturdy cuff links, a slim steel watch. And no, you don’t have to wear all three at the same time.

Wool suit, $2,390, by Gucci. Shirt, $198, by Paul Stuart. Tie, $235, by Louis Vuitton. Glasses, $220, by Persol. Cuff links, $730, by Cartier. Watch, $695, by Hamilton.

6. Understand the Power of Three
Maybe you’ve never considered a three-piece suit, but just check out how sharp it looks—especially without the jacket. If you’re sweating your wallet, don’t: A three-piece suit often costs no more than a traditional suit.

Wool three-piece suit, $2,395, and shirt, $495, by Giorgio Armani. Tie, $230, by Tom Ford. Shoes, $475, by Emporio Armani. Watch by Blancpain.

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